47 יומ

September 26 – October 3 I spent wandering the desert. This is quite amusing to have done on the particular days because it was Sukkot. For all the Gentiles out there, Sukkot commemorates the Jews wandering the desert for 40 years. It lasts 8 days and for that time, you eat all your meals in a Sukkah, which is a little hut/temporary building usually in your backyard. In Israel, neighborhoods build Sukkahs for those who cannot do so in their homes due to space constraints and most restaurants do so also. The first and last 2 days are the most strictly observed. On these days, everything is that would be closed on Shabbat is closed. The in between days are pretty normal. In the 10 days I was travelling, I managed to imitate the Israelites exile, return and wandering in between – albeit I’m pretty sure I had a lot more fun without the manna or slave labor.

So we begin in Jerusalem. We started at the Herzl Museum, which exposed us to Theodor Herzl, the founder of modern political Zionism. It was very cheesy, but rather informative. In so many ways, I can sympathize with Zionism especially as it arose during a time of intense anti-Semitism. At the same time, from the very beginning, there seems to have been a complete disregard of the Palestinians. From there, we went to Mt Herzl, which is like the Arlington Cemetery of Israel. All soldiers killed during their service are buried there and so are Presidents and Prime Ministers. It’s a very different experience going there than Arlington though in the sense that pretty much every Israeli knows at least one person buried there. It’s much more personal in that sense. It really was an eye opener to a part of the Israeli experience that is completely different from mine. For them, death and danger are the status quo rather than the exception to the point where there seems to be a disregard of it for the most part – at least in Tel Aviv, which is kind of removed from threat in a way that many other places are not. I’m not sure if that’s the attitude most Israelis have. After that, we went to Yad Vashem (Hand of God), which is their Holocaust Museum. It was very similar to the DC museum, but more straight-forward whereas DC has several exhibitions along with the main Holocaust history. Also an interesting difference is that the end of the Museum is with the establishment of the Israeli state and a view over the hills of Judea. There is an interesting implication –I think-- that Israel is the salvation of the Jewish people; it is what finally allowed for an end of the atrocities of the Holocaust as the Jewish people now have their own land. After that we went to the hostel changed and some of us attended Shabbat services, but at a feminist, Orthodox synagogue. To most Jews or those who know much about Orthodox Judaism in particular, the concept is not only foreign, it is an oxymoron. However, their explanation of the idea is very interesting and makes sense to me. So a quick background, In Judaism, there is the Torah (which contains Jewish law as delivered to Moses on Mt Sinai from God), there is the Mishneh Torah (which is the writing down of oral law), and the Talmud (which is a discussion of several rabbis as to how the law should be interpreted). What the congregation we met is trying to do is to preserve God’s law while recognizing that much of what is practiced is culture and interpretation and is therefore subject to change with time, in particular with regards to the role of women. The specifics are complicated and we didn’t have time to get into them, but that’s the general idea. Also interesting, they do not have a rabbi. Instead they make communal decisions and interpretations through committees on which both men and women sit. I think they’re doing something awesome and really want to know more about how their synagogue runs.

Day two was more what you were probably imaging one would do in Jerusalem. We started off walking along the old city walls to get a good picture of what the city looks like. We got about half way around, passing the Armenian, Christian, and Muslim quarters. We did get some good views of Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, but to be honest, it was just too hot, which made it not so fun for me at least. Finally we descended into the city and made our way to lunch. On the way, we entered some churches along la Via Dolorosa, which is the path one takes to visit the 14 Stations of the Cross. Each one represents a step along Christ’s path to crucifixion. There were soooooooo many people along the way from all around the world. I really couldn’t stand it. It’s not just the fact that I don’t believe in it and I therefore think it’s . . . well, you know. It’s that is felt so superficial. The mobs of tourists and all the ceremony of it really took away from the significance of the sites, or at least that’s how I felt. That might just be because I’ve never wanted to go to the touristy places much. What I really had fun doing was going off through the market while our lunch was being made through all the narrow streets seeing the vendors, their wares, and all the people going about their everyday lives. In a lot of ways, it was how you’d imagine a Middle Eastern market to be. Crowded streets, narrow alleyways going who knows where, people dressed in traditional Palestinian clothes (although plenty of men wear jeans and shirts), lots of dust and people calling out to you, and very hot. I walked down a bit with my friend Kerra and then stopped in a Kafiyya store, which is the typical Arab headscarf. I really wanted to get a Palestinian-style one. There are many now being made in China very cheaply, but I insisted on one handmade in Palestine. I definitely paid the price for it. The gentleman started at a price of 250 Shekels, which is like $70. I would never have guessed he would start there. I went for 100 Shekels. Through a long process of bartering and Kerra being adorable and helping me get discounts, we got it down to 160 shekels which is about $43. I still definitely overpaid. My tour guide wouldn’t tell me be how much and said it’s better not to know after the fact. But it’s one of the 3 things I have to have before coming back – that and an Israeli and a Palestinian flag. From there we had lunch and then went to the Western Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The Church felt like the other sites I mentioned. The Wall, not so much, but that’s probably because it’s open and you don’t feel so choked by tourists. After the tour was over, Sruti and I went to visit a friend’s grandparents who live in Jerusalem. They were incredibly sweet and hospitable. We had an amazing evening talking about Israel, the US, Islam, and the world all while looking over and listening to Jerusalem. The sounds were really an experience on their own. We heard church bells on top of Islamic calls to prayer and the IDF doing practice drills along with fireworks and music from an Arab wedding. It was unbelievable and unlike anything I have experienced or can describe. This was the background to a great discussion in which the Kuvins gave me some good perspective from the eyes of Americans who have been in Israel much longer than I and have a lot to make me aware of – with a side of the best iced coffee you’ve ever had in your life (it had a scoop of ice cream in it). If you know me, you know this is exactly what I wanted out of my time here. When we got back, Kerra and I grabbed dinner (actually just me and she came along) and then we joined everyone at a hooka bar in what was clearly the American district. It was completely packed. My aversion to touristy places led me to wander and get lost in Jerusalem with my friend Ashley. Around midnight, we called it a night.

Sunday, we started off with one of the founders of the Black Panthers who told us about the Katamon area of Jerusalem. The Black Panthers is a group that was established to advocate for Arab Jews (Mizrachim) who immigrated to Israel. They found themselves very poor when they arrived and pushed into this neighborhood of projects essentially. There was also a stigma against them from the Ashkenazim (Eastern European Jews) that made progress difficult. He gave us an idea of the problems that have been faced and some of the lingering issues, which turn out to still be the basics of education, housing, and employment. We then said “Shalom” to Jerusalem and when to the sweet water springs of Ein Gedi to hike, floated on the Dead Sea, and then arrived in the Bedouin village we would be staying at that night. During some free time, I got a chance to wander by myself to a real village nearby (ours was very touristy). I really want to learn more about the Bedouins. The way they live is so simple. They have livestock and live in shacks made of metal scraps and still keep their culture and language (Arabic) despite existing in Israel. As I was walking around, 2 boys (I imagine 10 and 8) came up to me and introduced themselves. They were so friendly; they just walked right up to me, stuck their hands out and said “Hi! My name is (sadly I forgot).” Unfortunately, we could say little to each other as their English was limited and my Arabic is even more. I went back and we went to the tent and we went to dinner. The restaurant was covered in soccer paraphernalia and reminded me of an American sports restaurant – until the food came out. We had hommos, baba ganoush (an eggplant spread), pita, Israeli salad, lamb and chicken kebab, and French fries (a hint of America). THE BEST SPORTS BAR FOOD EVER!!!!!! We then went back and did a short night hike. The more we walked around the desert, the more I came to love it. There is this overwhelming feeling of freedom and this connection to nature that embraced me and overtook me. If there was anywhere I felt God this trip, it was in this vast expanse of His creation. Maybe God doesn’t like gaggles of tourists either.

The next day, we got up at 4 am to hike up Masada and see the sunrise. Except it was too dusty to really see the sun. O well. From there we stopped at Ben-Gurion’s burial site and then stopped for one last hike. This was the best one though. It was more like rock climbing with ropes and ladders up steep inclines. I wish my brothers had been there. They would have loved it. We stopped at a mall in Dimona for lunch/break and then went to the kibbutz we were going to stay at that night. It was a dance kibbutz specifically for people who are older and want to start to dance (by older, I mean teenagers and up). We had a movement lesson that was a lot of fun and then had dinner and then I went out to be in the desert for a while again. That night, I went with Guy, Max, and Caitlin to a small jazz bar for jam night and watched Max join the band, which was surprisingly fun. I was actually impressed. It was the weirdest group of Rastas and hobos that just wanted to make music and they did a great job once they got a feel for each other.

The next day we did a jeep tour of the desert which was cool, but the best part was going to an unrecognized Bedouin village. They made us lunch, a sort of arroz con pavo, and I ate with my hands while sitting on the floor. They then gave us a lecture on the town and told us how the Israeli government has tried to uproot and contain Bedouin villages and refuses to recognize many that don’t comply. It was very interesting and made me want to get even more involved with Bedouins.

From there, 10 of us were dropped off in Beer Sheva to embark on our journey to Cairo!!!Our bus went to Eilat and we then took cabs to the Taba border crossing. Luckily, we had chartered a bus to wait for us and take us to Cairo and they were very helpful in getting us through the border. The drive through Sinai was long and bumpy, but by 5ish am, we had made it to our hostel. We had to wait for our rooms to be prepared, but took the time to nap and shower. From there we got breakfast. Coffee, a bottle of water, and kosher (this rice, macaroni, chickpea dish) cost about 10 pounds or $2. We then went to the Egyptian Museum, which has King Tut’s burial mask, many ancient Egyptian ruins, and many real mummies. Unfortunately, no cameras were allowed. By this time, about 7 people had already mistaken me for Egyptian, so at this point I decided to start counting. I then went and got shish kebab and took a nap. Luckily, behind our hostel was an Egyptian neighborhood, so everything was really cheap. That night we went on a dinner cruise down the Nile. They had musicians, a belly dancer, and some guys in funny costumes that danced too, but the real amazing part was just looking out over Cairo and thinking of where I was. I was floating down the Nile in one of the world’s oldest cities. I finally accomplished my dream of travelling to the Arab Middle East. I was in Africa! Tired from the journey, we passed out early that night.

Charged and ready to go, the next day, we did a tour of the Citadel (built by Saladin in the 12 century) with all its amazing mosques, Old Cairo full of Coptic churches and even an old synagogue, and the marketplace. I got a chance to buy an Egyptian flag (I buy the flag of every country I visit) and some gifts. Haggling is a must and was fun (but I’m too nice). The gentlemen I bought from even brought me tea (Egyptian hospitality) and I got to ask him about Egyptian perspectives on politics. He said his number one priority for Egypt is changing the president (Mubarak’s been around for about 30 yrs), that the US is hypocritical for letting Israel have nukes but not Iran, that he has mixed feelings about the Afghanistan War, and was against Iraq (according to him, the divisions in society needed a strong leader like Saddam). Also, they all LOVE Obama. I was so embarrassed when he asked what Americans think of Mubarak that I had to say most of us don’t know who he is. This conversation is exactly what I wanted and he was excited too for me to bring back Egyptian views to America. We went back to the hostel, took a quick nap, and then headed out to a shisha (hooka) bar. These are everywhere is Egypt. All day long, men of all ages are in cafes smoking and drinking tea or coffee. We went with one of the guys from the hotel (they were all really nice and we became friends) who took us to a place to get dinner and a popular pastry shop (OMG THE BEST DESSERTS EVER, O and 12 cookies for 9.50 pounds or $2). We got a chance to talk to him about Egypt and America and life and politics. On the way back, I started to feel really tired, but I just thought I was hungry since I hadn’t eaten yet. I got back and ate most of my food, but eventually couldn’t finish and had to lay down. Jay went out for a while and when he got back, he found me tired, sick to my stomach, and achy. He touched my forehead and told me I was really hot. He got some friends and luckily one of the hostel people’s friends there was a 6 yr med student. He felt my head and sent someone to get some medicines and a thermometer. My temperature turned out to be 39.2 C or 102.4 F. Luckily, in Egypt, you don’t really need a prescription so I got a strong analgesic, amoxicillin, and a digestive cleanser. He thought it was something I ate. Luckily, with these strong meds and sleep, my temperature came down to 37.9 or 100ish by the next morning.

I still wasn’t in great shape, but it was our day to see the pyramids and I wasn’t about to miss that. So I went, but my version was kind of like “Hi pyramids”, snap, “Bye pyramids”. Same for Sakkara which has the first pyramids in Egypt. The sun was way too much for me and I felt nauseous the whole time, so I didn’t ride a camel and decided to sleep the rest of the day. I was really mad at this. I got to see the sites I wanted, but that night everyone got to go out and see Cairo as an everyday experience and made Egyptian friends, which is really what excited me so much more than seeing the sites. O well. Unfortunately, the sickness made me want to be back in my bed in Tel Aviv and ideally my mom to come take care of me (yes, it turned me into a 6 yr old).

Our last day, I spent mostly in the hostel. I was mostly better by now, but my stomach wasn’t great. I walked around near our hostel for a while with Becky and Jay and found a cheap pair of sandals to replace the one’s a broke in the Bedouin tent. When I got hungry, I broke down, I needed something familiar. I went for the golden arches. I know, it didn’t sound like a good idea to me either, but it was all I wanted. It’s really cheap there. A Big Mac meal is 15 pounds or $3. Oddly, I guess my stomach just felt weird, because I didn’t react badly at all. The fries were so comforting. That night, we met up with Nitya and Jaya, who had been staying with some friends of theirs. We went to this mall that was so crazy. It had everything from Puma and Zara to Burger King and Cinnabon, TGI Fridays, and Macaroni Grill, O and several veil boutiques. Women wore everything from short shorts to Niqab. We ate at On the Border (most people miss American food a lot more than I do. I know “American”). The chips were fantastic, but other than that, it wasn’t so great. We got back packed and at midnight, we said Ma’salaam to Cairo and met our bus to get back to Taba. The journey took 17 hrs from Cairo to Tel Aviv due to distance, plus waiting for the bus in Cairo and waiting for a bus in Eilat. Oddly, it was when we were leaving that I was feeling well enough that I really wanted to go out and have those experiences I had been looking forward to instead of going back to Tel Aviv. Don’t you love irony? O and by the way, by the end of the trip, around 25 people had mistaken me for Egyptian (some of them even insisting I must be or at least my parents).

Wow, so that was my desert adventure. This week we have been chilling and recovering from it all. I did get to hang out with Guy's friends again this weekend, which was great. I'm really excited to hang out with more Israelis. I’m finally pretty much all better. Luckily, I don’t have to recover financially. I set aside way too much for this trip, which is a very welcome surprise. I really want to go back and can’t wait to go to Lebanon now so I can try out more of the Arab world. Hopefully, they’ll let me in. There are so many pictures from this, so if you’re interested, I’ve put them all up on Facebook. Right now, the internet is being dumb so I can't get more onto this, but I'll try adding more later.